Its April, and for those that find recreation on the water, boats are starting to come back to life. But, before you fill the tank, stuff your coolers, and rush out to your favorite spot, take a little time and effort to ensure your boat is ready by meeting required regulations and is safe to operate.
If you are lucky enough to have a Coast Guard Auxiliary operating in your area, you can schedule a safety check OR, you can finish reading this article. The only difference, the Coast Guard Auxiliary will give you a sticker that you can adhere to your vessel that tells the Coast Guard that you underwent and passed a Coast Guard safety check. The CGA safety check is free to anyone that requests it; however, you may be required to bring your vessel to a specific location or take advantage of a local or more convenient location if the CGA scheduled an event in your boating area.
However, if you just want to know what the CGA is going to review for your safety check, this article will give you the all the information you need to meet the requirements of the Coast Guard safety check.
The information I provide is taken directly from the regulations and was validated using other official USCG and Federal sources.
Important Note: Your annual safety check will differ based on the length and propulsion of your vessel. I am not a sailor, rower, windsurfer, or paddler; therefore, I do not provide any information regarding vessels with these types of propulsion. Additionally, since it is assumed that most weekend boaters do not operate boats over 20 meters (65 feet); this article addresses vessels 6 meters to 20 meters and equipped with motorize propulsion.
All vessels basically have the same types of requirements; however, vessels over 26 feet and vessels over 39.5 feet have a few additional requirements which I will cover and point out.
I will also list the items in categories like Registration, Safety, Other Equipment, and State specific. For those readers who do not live in Florida…Sorry, I only provide the additional requirements required to boat in Florida.
REGISTRATION AND TITLE
State Registration
All vessels must be registered with the State; no matter if the vessel’s title is a State title or a Federal title (documented vessel). Your State registration is a paper letter/form that is accompanied by a little yellow rectangle sticker that displays the month, date and vessel’s registration number and is the same sticker found on your car’s license plate. This little sticker is often affixed to a larger contrasting color rectangle sticker. Additionally, this registration sticker must be affixed to the port side of vessel near the registration letters and numbers; however, some adhere the sticker on a port-side cockpit window.
If you just bought your boat, a boat dealer will assist you in registering your vessel and getting you a sticker. If you purchased a used boat, you must take the bill of sale, vessel’s certificate of title, and other required documentation to your local county tax office within 30-days of purchase and register (and pay sales tax) to register your vessel. Vessel registration can be paid every year, or you can select a two-year registration. In order to operate your boat, your vessel’s registration must be current, and you should not let your registration expire (go past the last day of the month) that is dated on the yellow sticker.
Last, and little-known requirement, the vessel’s original registration paperwork must be on board the vessel when it is in operation. As technology with State governments improve, it may be possible to keep an electronic copy on your smart device to serve as an official copy; however for now, you should keep the original on board when using the vessel.
UPDATE: I contacted the USCG and inquired about the use of electronic documentation. Per a recent (5/2021) conversation with a USCG rep, the USCG will accept an electronic copy of your registration. What format you should use was not specificed; so, we'll assume taking a picture of the registration will be all that is required.
REGISTRATION NUMBER
If you titled your vessel with the State, you will be issued a vessel registration number. Your vessel’s registration number follows a particular format; “XX #### XX,” for example, FL 1234 AB and identify your vessel (and owner) just like a car’s license plate. Every vessel that is titled with the State must have the registration numbers painted or permanently affixed near the port and starboard bow. The letters must be block letters and numbers at least three inches high and spaced in the same manner as on your registration sticker and paperwork “XX #### XX.”
DOCUMENTED VESSEL
Vessel documentation is a national form of registration. Vessel Documentation is EXACTLY like titling you vessel with the State; however, the vessel is titled (or documented) with the United State Coast Guard at the national level. In Florida, your vessel is either titled with the State; and is required to have the registration number (“XX #### XX”) affixed on the port and starboard bow OR your boat’s title is with the USCG Documentation Center and would be required to have a vessel name and a hailing port permanently painted or permanently affixed to the vessel.
When you document your vessel, the State Title is in effect deleted and is replaced by USCG Documentation. Important note, only vessel owners with U.S. Citizenship can Document with the USCG. Those individuals who are not U.S. Citizens can check their local governments for Documentation criteria. In reverse, if you bought a vessel that was documented, the previous owner can transfer (to the new buyer) or delete the vessel's current (or expired) documentation. If you no longer wanted to document your vessel, you must have the Documentation Deletion Notification letter (the previous owner must complete this process) before you can go to the local tax office to get the vessel re-titled by the State and registered.
Per USCG, vessels of five net tons or more used in fishing activities on navigable waters of the U.S. or in the Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ), or used in coastwise trade must be documented unless the vessel is exempt from documentation. Coastwise trade is generally defined as the transportation of merchandise or passengers between points in the U.S. or the EEZ. Net tonnage is a measure of a vessel's useful capacity, expressed as a volume (gross tonnage minus deductible spaces). It should not be confused with the vessel's weight or total cargo carrying capacity.
Certificate of Documentation may be endorsed for fishery, coastwise, registry, or recreation. Any documented vessel may be used for recreational purposes, regardless of its endorsement, but a vessel documented with a recreational endorsement only may not be used for any other purpose. Registry endorsements are generally used for foreign trade.
SAFETY ITEMS
PFD’s (Personal Floatation Devices, aka Life Jackets)
Everyone who boats should know…AND commit the following to memory.
Never leave the dock unless everyone has a PFD… THAT IS… USCG approved, serviceable (in good working order; no tears, rips, or degradation of any type) PROPER TYPE (talking about Type I or II) and properly sized; meaning adults have adult sizes, kids have kid sizes, and toddlers and infants have toddler and infant sizes. They must all fit snug and will not pull over the neck/head while wearing on the water. All approved PDF’s will have “USCG Approved” and their TYPE stenciled on the PFD.
DO THIS: The PFD should be examined for serviceability each and every time it is worn and at the beginning of every boating season!
TYPE I - This is an offshore life jacket that has been designed to keep you buoyant in rough, open water and best when rescue is not immediate.
TYPE II - is a near shore buoyant life jacket that is made in a variety of sizes for both adults and children. This type of life jacket is intended for calm inland waters where there is a high likelihood of a quick rescue. Your standard orange rectangular non-bulky PFDs are TYPE II.
TYPE III – Are not considered as you boat’s PFD count (Type I and II’s only). Type III PFD’s come in several styles that suit different boating and watersport activities, such as a jet ski life jacket or a self-inflatable marine working PFD. Type III PFDs are only intended for use in calm waters where there is a very high chance of fast rescue since they aren't made to turn an unconscious person face-up.
Throwable
Also known as a Type IV PFD. Every vessel must have a Type IV throwable. Vessels under 26 feet can utilize the square throwable, looks like a square birthday cake with two arm straps; or, a ring (looks like a lifesaver candy) throwable Type IV. Additionally, a throwable device, or type IV PFD, may include boat cushions and horseshoe buoys. This type of PFD is not to be worn on the body, and they can never be substituted as a regular TYPE I or II PFD.
Extra Consideration: A throwable TYPE IV should have a 50-foot heaving line and safety light attached to better assist retrieving a passenger.
VISUAL DISTRESS DEVICES
A visual distress signal (VDS) A wide variety of signaling devices, both pyrotechnic and non-pyrotechnic, can be carried to meet the requirements of the regulation. Every vessel is required to have visual distress signals for both day and night. A visual distress device is any device designed to show that your boat is in distress and help others locate you.
The most common type of visual distress signal is the pyrotechnic red flare; good for both day and night signaling. All pyrotechnic solutions must be in good serviceable order; meaning, your flares and smoke signals THAT HAVE EXPIRED are no longer able to satisfy the visual distress requirement.
Pyrotechnics
A pyrotechnic solution, if chosen, requires a total of “3” three pyrotechnic devices FOR DAY (can be smoke signals or flares) AND “3” three pyrotechnic devices FOR NIGHT (flares only).
All Flares are approved for both day and night visual distress signaling. THEREFORE, only “3” (not 6) flares total will meet the day and night requirement. If the standard red hand-held flare does not meet your needs, there are other pyrotechnical options for both the night (flares) and day (smoke signals). Additionally, you are able to mix and match your pyrotechnics as long as “at least 3 devices meet the day (flares and smoke) and night (flares) requirements from the approved items below:
Flares
160.021 HAND RED FLARE - 500 CANDELA (most common type)
160.028 SIGNAL PISTOL FOR RED PARACHUTE FLARE
160.036 HAND-HELD RED PARACHUTE FLARE
160.066 RED AERIAL PYROTECHNIC FLARE
160.121 HAND RED FLARE DISTRESS SIGNAL - 15,000 CANDELA (SOLAS)
160.136 RED PARACHUTE FLARE - 30,000 CANDELA (SOLAS)
Smoke Signals
160.022 FLOATING ORANGE SMOKE SIGNAL
160.037 HAND ORANGE SMOKE SIGNAL - 50 SECONDS
160.057 FLOATING ORANGE SMOKE DISTRESS SIGNAL - 15 MINUTE
160.122 FLOATING ORANGE SMOKE SIGNAL - 3 MINUTE (SOLAS)
160.157 FLOATING ORANGE SMOKE SIGNAL - 15 MINUTE (SOLAS)
Non-Pyrotechnics
Recently, the visual distress regulation changed to allow the following non-pyrotechnic options:
A night signal using an electric distress light meeting the standards of 46 CFR 161.013 (USCG Approved S.O.S. light; night distress signal only)
AND
A day signal using an orange flag (with black square and black circle in-line and centered) meeting the standards of 46 CFR 160.072.
The non-pyrotechnic solution (light and flag together) can be bought off of amazon between $70.00- and $90.00-dollars US.
SOUND PRODUCING DEVICES
Every vessel must have some way of making an efficient sound signal that can be heard up to one-half mile and last for at least 2 seconds AND can produce the necessary sound for INLAND navigation rules (basically, ya need a horn); but a whistle can meet the requirement.
Examples of sound producing devices:
Handheld air horn
Athletic/boat whistle
Installed horn, etc.
And…Contrary to popular belief, a human voice is not acceptable.
Vessels that are 12 meters (39.4 feet) or longer must have a sound-producing device(s) like the examples above; the one distinct difference is that the sound producing device must be heard from over a mile AS WELL AS a bell that can be heard for at least one mile.
FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
Nearly all recreational boats over 16 feet have one or more of the following conditions:
Closed compartments and compartments under seats where portable fuel tanks may be stored.
Double bottoms not sealed to the hull or that are not 100% filled with flotation materials.
Closed living spaces.
Closed stowage compartments, in which combustible or flammable materials are stored.
Permanently installed fuel tanks; includes portable fuel tanks too heavy to lift or carry.
Therefore, any boat with a motor is going to be required to have an extinguisher. And like everything else regarding safety, any fire extinguisher must have USCG APPROVED marked on the extinguisher.
Fire Classes
Do you know you ABC’s? When it comes to fire extinguishers, you should!
Without making this a fire fighting and fire prevention lesson, I will try to simplify the types of fires and what the ABC’s of fire extinguishers represent.
On a boat, a fire can burn the materials that a boat is built from; fiberglass, vinyl, wood, cloth; in essence boat materials.
Boat fires can also be caused by flammable liquids such as fuel, diesel, oil, and grease.
And on rare occasions, a fire on a boat can be started by electricity.
A boat is made of wood.
A-class of fires or wood, paper, cloth; or combustible material
A boat runs on fuel.
B-class fires are fuel, diesel, and oil types of fires.
A boat can use electricity.
C-class fires are started by electricity.
If you can remember the above (which are the main classes of fires), you can remember your fire extinguisher class types (As Bs and C’s). If for some reason wood, fuel or electricity is difficult to remember, then as far as fire extinguishers go…
JUST REMEMBER “B” prepared!
If you can remember the fire classes (combustibles, flammable liquids, electricity) AND you can remember combustibles equals A, and flammable liquids equals B and electricity equals C; then remember the following:
“A” class fire extinguishers put our A type fires; fires made up of combustible materials
“B” class fire extinguishers put our B type fires; fires that are caused by flammable liquids.
“C” class fire extinguishers put our C type fires; fires that are caused by electricity (short circuits)
Multi-purpose fire extinguishers
The ABC-type extinguisher is the one type fits all.
Then there are the AB’s, AC’s and BC’s. Yes, you guessed it… Each letter on a fire extinguisher represents the class of fire that the extinguisher is designed to extinguish.
Since boats have multiple causes (or types) of fire risk, boats require a multi-purpose fire extinguisher.
Since electrical fires are a very uncommon risk; especially on less than 20 meters, AB fire extinguishers (also known as “B” class extinguishers are the extinguishers required to have on board. In fact, ANY vessel that has a motor is required to have B-type extinguisher(s) on board.
Size Matters
Just like fires have ABC’s, we also have our 123s. The number (typically represented by a Roman numeral) will represent the size, or the amount of area the fire extinguisher is designed to tackle.
Without getting too technical or into the weeds with firefighting or extinguishers, just know remember the following:
For boat safety regulations, there are only two (2) sizes that you need to consider: size I (one) and size II (two). And just like simple math, one plus one equals two. Therefore, two individual B-type I fire extinguishers equal a B-type II fire extinguisher or “1 + 1 = 2.”
Boats come in all shapes and sizes. And when it comes to fighting fire with an extinguisher, ONE SIZE DOES NOT FIT ALL! Based on the length of your vessel will determine the number and size of required extinguishers you need to have on board.
Simply put:
26 feet or less................(1) B-1 fire extinguisher
26 to 40 feet……........…..(2) B-1s OR (1) B-2
40 feet to 65 feet………..(3) B-1s OR (1) B-1 AND (1) B-2
Special Note 1: For those of you that have a fixed fire extinguishing system installed… those count as (1) B-1 fire extinguisher.
Special Note 2: All fire extinguishers must be provided with a mounting bracket. While not required, it is recommended that the extinguishers be located in easy to reach locations.
Fire Extinguisher Maintenance
Inspect extinguishers at least annually (recommended monthly): Things you look for in your inspection are the following:
Seals and tamper indicators are not broken or missing.
Pressure gauges or other indicators, if so equipped, read in the operable range as described on the extinguisher
There is no obvious physical damage, rust, corrosion, leakage, or clogged nozzles.
If the minimum weight is stated on the extinguisher label, weigh extinguishers annually to check.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Fire extinguishers that do not satisfy the above requirements or that have been partially emptied must be replaced or taken to a qualified fire extinguisher servicing company for recharge; otherwise, you could be cited for failing to meet fire extinguisher requirements.
VENTILATION
Mechanical or Natural Ventilation
Boats that use gasoline power engines for electrical generation, mechanical power, or propulsion are required to be equipped with a ventilation system (outboard motors not required).
A natural ventilation system is required for each compartment in a boat that contains the following:
A permanently installed gasoline engine or has openings between the engine and compartment requiring ventilation.
A permanently installed fuel tank and an electrical component that is not ignition protected.
Contains a fuel tank that vents into that compartment (including a portable tank.) or a non-metallic fuel tank.
A natural ventilation system consists of:
A supply opening (duct/cowl) from the outside air (located on the exterior surface of the boat) or, from a ventilated compartment or, from a compartment that is open to the outside air.
An exhaust opening into another ventilated compartment or an exhaust duct to the atmosphere.
For a detailed understanding about ventilation and the dangers realted, you can read my blog “We Need to Clear the Air!”
BACKFIRE FLAM CONTROL
Per the USCG, gasoline engines installed in a vessel after April 25, 1940, except outboard motors, must be equipped with an acceptable means of backfire flame control. The backfire flame arrestor (BFA) must be suitably secured to the air intake with a flame-tight connection and is required to be either USCG APPROVED or comply with SAE J-1928 or UL 1111 standards and marked accordingly.
Basically if you boat is newer than 1940 and was built by a manufacturer, you have a BFA installed.
If you do not know what a backfire flame arrestor looks like, it is a round or circular device typically made of metal mesh material that sits on top of the intake manifold/carburetor. However, based on your motor type the arrestor may look completely different.
NAVIGATION (SIDE) LIGHTS
Recreational vessels are required to display navigation lights between sunset and sunrise and during periods of restricted visibility (fog, rain, haze, etc.). Your navigation lights or “side lights” must have a red (port side), a green (starboard side) a white mast light (front, center, high, illuminating forward) and a white stern light (rear, center, illuminating aft).
Note: boats less than 12 meters may combine the aft and mast head light into a single “all-around-light.” Also known as an anchor light. That should be visible without obstruction from both forward, aft, port and starboard directions. Additionally, the red and green side lights may be a single light fixture or “combination light” or closely mounted on the front of the bow. The configuration and location of these lights tell other boaters at night or in restricted visibility your vessel’s general vessel type/size and general direction the vessel is traveling.
If your boat was built by a manufacturer, just make sure all your lights are checked before each use to be compliant.
Note: Vessels that are under 26 feet and do not travel faster the 7 knots or under human power are not required to have red and green side lights; however, they are required to carry an electric torch (aka; a flashlight) and illuminate that light well before a risk of collision exits. This includes all of you that installed red and green lights on your fishing kayak. And NO, putting sidelights on jet skis does not make them legal to operate after dusk and before dawn.
MARINE SANITATION DEVICES (MSD)
For recreational vessels that have toilets, the vessel must have an operable marine sanitation device (MSD) on board. All installed MSDs must be USCG APPROVED and are so labeled.
There are 3 types of MSDs:
Type I is a flow-through treatment devices that commonly use maceration and disinfection for the treatment of sewage (only allowed on vessels < than 20 meters or 65 feet.)
Type II is a flow-through treatment device that may employ biological treatment and disinfection (some Type II MSDs may use maceration and disinfection).
Type III is typically a holding tank where sewage is stored until it can be discharged shore-side or at sea (beyond three miles from shore).
Special note: A vessel that has a portable potty does not fall under any MSD requirements.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The discharge of treated sewage IS NOT allowed within 3 nautical miles of shore and never in designated “No Discharge Zone” areas. Untreated sewage may be discharged beyond 3 nautical miles.
ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR VESSELS OVER 26 FEET
MARPOL PLACARD
All vessels over 26 feet must have a Marine Pollution placard (sticker) permanently affixed on the vessel. If you do not have one you can order one from Amazon or purchase at your local boat supply shop.
OIL POLLUTION PLACARD
All vessels over 26 feet must have an Oil Pollution placard (sticker) permanently affixed on the vessel. If you do not have one you can order one from Amazon or purchase at your local boat supply shop.
Special note: Vessels over 26 feet that have an engine compartment may have the oil pollution placard affixed on the inside of the engine compartment door.
ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR VESSELS OVER 12 METERS / 39.4 FEET
You must carry “on board” a copy of the COLREGS Navigation rules; also known as “The Rues of the Road.”
ROTR are the basic laws governing the steering and sailing of vessels and defines roles and responsibilities for all vessel operators.
You can download and print a copy of the ROTR from the Internet; or you can purchase a paperback book from USCG or Amazon.
ADDITIONAL FLORIDA STATE REQUIREMENTS
Boater Safety Certification (aka Boat License)
In the State of Florida and to operate a vessel on Florida waters: If you were born AFTER January 1, 1988, you must successfully complete a Boating Safety Certification Course. Once completed the Safety Certification organization will issue you a Boating Safety ID Card that you must have on you at all at times when operating a boat on Florida waters.
The U.S. Boat Foundation provides free access, exam services and ID card issuance for Florida’s (all states) Boater Safety Certification requirements. https://www.boatus.org/florida/
RECOMMEDED ITEM... BUT NOT REQUIRED
Rather than try to explain in detail each recommended equipment; Ill give you a brief explanation and the primary reason why its highly recommended.
Marine VHF Radio
This is a piece of life saving equipment should you have an emergency on the water. Portables can be purchased for around $65.00 on Amazon and will allow you to request assistance/aid from the USCG or nearby vessels.
EPRIB
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon or EPIRB is used to alert search and rescue services in the event of an emergency. It does this by transmitting a coded message via the free to use, multinational satellite network. While not typically needed in inland waters. It is a MUST if you plan on boating offshore where landmarks are no longer visible. You can purchase on Amazon for $360.00.
Bow and Stern Anchor
Anchors while not a regulatory requirement, anchors allow you the ability to maintain a specific location. If you have only one anchor, NEVER anchor your vessels from the stern.
Stern anchors or anchoring your vessel from the stern allows keep your vessel from rotating, swinging or moving as well as keep your vessel oriented in a particular direction. This is very handy should you need to anchor in narrow waters, or around other boaters. It also will help keep your bow anchor set.
Navigational Equipment / Charts
GPS chart and chart plotters (or paper charts) are a nice to have when boating in shallow inland waters to avoid grounding and other underwater and water hazards. Charts are always a good idea in the event your GPS system malfunctions or fails to operate correctly.
Magnetic Compass
Essential if you need to navigate and are unable to orient yourself. Essential for use with charts should your GPS system malfunctions or fails to operate correctly.
Fenders
Boat fenders are used to protect your vessels hull against damage from other boats, docks, pilings, and other fixed hazards when mooring or anchoring your vessel.
Ensure your fenders are properly sized. The general rule of thumb is that a cylindrical fender should have 1" of diameter (2" for round fenders) for every 4' to 5' of boat length. That means a 25-35 foot vessel should use 8"diameter for cylinder type fenders and 18" diameter for round ball type fenders.
Boater’s Hook
Having a boater’s hook (an expandable pole with a hook on the end) is a piece of equipment that will help you retrieve fallen or floating items, push off or keep incoming hazards from making contact with your vessel.
Mooring lines
Lines to properly moor/secure you boat to a dock, another vessel, or fixed structure.
Ensure your lines are the appropriate thickness and length. Your mooring lines should have 1/8" of diameter for every 9' of boat with a minimum size of 3/8". This means a 20' boat should use 3/8" lines. A 40' boat should use 5/8" line.
Heaving Line
A heaving line is a lightweight line with a weight and made to be thrown between ships or shore and used to pull a heavier line across.
Manual Bilge Pump
Small vessel regulations require bilge pumps. Most vessels come equipped with mechanical bilge pumps. However, it is always recommended to have a manual bilge pump in the event your mechanical bilge pumps fail to operate when they are needed.
If you have a manual bilge pump, the pump and hose must be long enough that water can be pumped from the bilge space of the boat over the side of the boat.
If your vessels is less than 29.5 feet, you may carry a bailer (bucket) instead of a pump.
Tool Kit
You should always have a basic tool kit on board to assist with unexpected repairs.
Spare Parts
Consider carrying spare parts on items that have a common failure rate e.g., fuses, bulbs, hoses, belts, etc.
Alternate Propulsion
Consider having an alternate means of propulsion such as a paddle or an oar.
Flashlight (w/Batteries)
A flashlight is a handy piece of equipment that can illuminate dark spaces as well as in dark or night time conditions.
Search Light
A search light is a handy piece of equipment on board to help illuminate areas at night that contain in water hazards like pilings, beacons, structures and other vessels; and especially in MOB (man overboard) or rescue situations.
First Aid Kit
A first aid kit is a box, bag or pack that holds supplies used to treat minor injuries including cuts, scrapes, burns, bruises, and sprains. More elaborate first aid kits can also include survival supplies, life-saving emergency supplies or convenience items like bug sting wipes or cold & flu medicines. Amazon sells kits for as little as $5.00 (you get what you pay for). However, kits that typically cost around $20.00 to $30.00 will suit you well.
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